I look up from my notebook when I hear the sound of feet. Standing in the doorway fifteen feet away is an adult olive baboon. It’s about the size of a large dog, with bristly gray fur and a long muzzle. The baboon surveys the empty library, and it’s head stops when it sees me. It raises its eyebrows in an almost human expression of surprise; I had been quiet enough that it didn’t known I was in the building. I’ve been told these monkeys can be aggressive, and I’m not sure what will happen if one finds itself in close quarters with a human. Thankfully, after a short pause, it decides to leave. I stand and quickly close the door behind it. I might not be so lucky next time.
Yep, its monkey season all right. The baboons have been at our school almost every day for the last week. By the end of the dry season, they have picked the forest clean, and have moved to the outskirts of Nyungwe to raid crops and scavenge in the villages. They come in troops of 20 or 30 and more or less have free reign of our campus. I think I even heard one on my roof the other day. The villagers don’t like them because they steal corn from the fields and generally make trouble. The children chase them and throw rocks- probably the reason baboons tend to stay away from people. I haven’t seen them be aggressive yet, which is good because I often have to walk within ten feet of them to get to class. They really like going through my compost pile, which is a little irritating, but also is like having someone turn over the compost for me every day. All I have to do is put it back in a pile. So it’s not all bad.
In domestic news, one of my room mates has moved his bed and some furniture into the house , which means he will likely start living with me full time within the week. Having a room mate will certainly change the way I live. I’m used to having the whole house to myself, so I will probably have to adjust my behavior a little bit (aka not walking around in my underwear, etc.) It will be interesting to see how we deal with the eating situation, too. I’m not sure if we will cook food to share together or if we will switch off cooking nights. I imagine we will be eating dinner together, though, since eating food without sharing it is considered very rude in Rwandan culture. I’m hoping having Rwandan room mates will give me a chance to practice my Kinyarwanda since I’ve been speaking a lot of English with the other teachers and my students, but they may want to practice their English with me, too. I’ll be sure to write an update when they actually move in.
We haven’t had water in the staff residences since this past Thursday, which has been something of a challenge. Normally I have running water in my house, so I don’t have to haul water here like I did during training. However for the past couple of days, I’ve been surviving on the water in my water filter (about 10 L.) Luckily, the rainy season has just started, so I was able to collect a good amount of water yesterday and refill my filter, flush my toilet, wash my dishes, and take care of some other necessities. The ludicrous thing about the situation is that I have a water catchment system built onto my house. There is a tank that is full of water- it must have about 20,000 liters in it, but there is no tap, so the water just sits there, unused. Meanwhile it is raining every day, so water is running out of the joint between the tank and the pipe from the roof, and all the while the school is paying to have water
piped in. I just don’t understand. I’ve talked to our groundskeeper, and hopefully we will have a tap on our water tank in the near future.
A last vignette to leave you with; last Saturday, my site mate came to my house to make lunch. We made a Mexican feast- refried beans, tortillas, salsa, it was great. While we were cooking, a few of the neighbor children came over to see what we were doing. They poked around the yard a bit and spotted the herb sprouts I had potted in half-water bottles. I was rolling tortillas inside, and saw them looking at the bottles. Afraid they might knock the plants over, I tried to get their attention by rapping on the window. Instead, I accidentally put my hand right through the glass. The children looked at me dumbstruck. The muzungu had just smashed his hand through his window and was now spouting gibberish Kinyarwanda at them. They had no idea what was going on. Meanwhile, my site mate couldn’t see the children from where she was standing. To her, it looked like I had walked away from my tortillas and put my hand through the window, totally unprovoked. She laughed for about half an hour straight. Somehow I avoided cutting myself, so in the end the only damage done was to the window and my dignity. I felt pretty ridiculous at the time, but no one has mentioned it since and the children aren’t afraid to come visit me, so I guess it’s water under the bridge already.
Project FatNick Update: I have been thinking about the lifestyle changes that might be contributing to my loss of weight. The most likely changes I can come up with are A) eating less meat (but I already ate very little) B) eating less cheese, which could be a significant factor but will be a hard problem to solve, and C) drinking less beer. I’m thinking that beer may have been one of my major sources of empty calories, and empty calories are really what I need to put weight back on. Obviously, this is not really an unpleasant chore. We’ll see if it works.
Rwandan Nights 